Vanishing Deepwater Sharks, Hunted for Beauty Products, Win Hard-Fought Protections

Close-up of a shark swimming in clear blue water, showcasing its streamlined body.

Deepwater sharks have received new international trade safeguards after years of decline driven by demand for their liver oil. The decision emerged from global negotiations in Samarkand, where governments confronted the rapid loss of species targeted for cosmetics and personal care products, CNN reports.

Gulper sharks, known for their bright green eyes and slow life cycles, have been heavily exploited for squalene-rich oil. Their populations have collapsed in some regions by more than 80%, a trend linked to expanding deepwater fisheries and high demand for moisturizing compounds used in creams, sunscreens, and other products.

The new regulations give these sharks a chance to recover.

A shark swims gracefully underwater, surrounded by blue water and sunlight.

Deepwater sharks were hunted heavily for their squalene-rich liver oil.

A “Watershed Moment” for Deepwater Species

More than 70 shark and ray species received upgraded protection levels as part of a sweeping set of votes at the 20th Conference of the Parties to CITES. Coverage by the Associated Press explains that oceanic whitetips, whale sharks, and manta rays were placed under Appendix I, which bans commercial international trade. Gulper sharks were added to Appendix II, requiring proof that catches and exports are legal and sustainable.

Wildlife experts told CNN the shift was overdue. One described sharks and rays as “the second most imperiled group of species on the planet,” warning that many were “running out of time” without swift action.

The Wildlife Conservation Society called the uplisting of the oceanic whitetip shark a historic event. The WCS noted that this marked the first time CITES had granted full trade prohibition to a shark species. Delegates emphasized that oceanic whitetips had lost 80–90% of their numbers in just three generations.

A shark swimming gracefully underwater against a blue ocean backdrop.

Oceanic whitetip sharks have been moved to Appendix I with a full trade ban.

Why Gulper Sharks Needed Help

Deepwater sharks reproduce slowly, maturing late and producing few young. Scientists cited by CNN stressed that once these populations are depleted, they can take decades to rebound. One analysis presented at the conference estimated that a severely overfished gulper species in Australia would need close to a century to regain even a quarter of its former abundance.

The cosmetics industry remains a major pressure point. Market data referenced by CNN shows that squalene is still used widely, despite availability of plant-derived alternatives. Although many major brands shifted away from shark oil years ago, testing has shown that some products, particularly from parts of Asia, continue to rely on it.

A shark swimming gracefully in clear blue ocean waters.

The cosmetics industry remains a major consumer of squalene.

International Action to Curb Trade

The decision in Samarkand requires exporting nations to prove sustainability, legality, and traceability when trading any listed species. According to the Associated Press, several species were assigned zero-export quotas, functionally halting their international trade.

Officials from multiple nations argued that shark declines threaten both marine ecosystems and local economies. Advocates cited by WCS warned that ignoring the crisis would risk losing iconic species entirely.

For gulper sharks — mysterious, deep-sea animals that evolved over millions of years — the new protections mark a rare moment of international unity. Conservationists say the move may finally give these vulnerable species the time they need to recover.

Matthew Russell

Matthew Russell is a West Michigan native and with a background in journalism, data analysis, cartography and design thinking. He likes to learn new things and solve old problems whenever possible, and enjoys bicycling, spending time with his daughters, and coffee.

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